The Schwarza Valley & Saalfeld

Before leaving Erfurt this morning, I visited the 12th-century St. Marien Cathedral. Since it was built and modified over many centuries, it incorporates a variety of architectural styles. You enter a relatively austere romanesque sanctuary, airy and serene, and then go up several steps at one end to access the narrower gothic nave. At its end, you are struck by the riot of colors, textures and intricate embellishments that comprise the 15th-century, 50-foot tall baroque stucco altar, which includes a Cranach painting, numerous life-sized statues of saints, cupids, flowers, gilding and other confectionery -- the works. The long, high 700-year-old stained glass windows surrounding all of this are breathtaking.

Later that morning, I encountered an extremely odd sight. I went into a bakery to get a cup of coffee, and the pastry case was swarming with ... bees. They were buzzing all over the various cakes and sweet rolls, and neither the counterwoman nor the customers seemed to think it was in the least bit strange.

Leaving Erfurt, I headed to the Schwarza Valley to the south. The little train first glided along neat open fields of brown, gold and green, behind which stood rolling, fir-covered hills. Red-roofed villages appeared here and there, often cloaked in mist and with wisps of smoke drifting from the house chimneys. As the train neared the valley, it began to snake through dense forest and over small trestle bridges, as the sides of the valley grew higher and higher.

I changed trains at Rottenbach, and did a double take when I saw on the platform an ancient steam locomotive with vintage green wagons and yellow "Reichsbahn" insignias on the side. Apparently they run these antique trains for enthusiasts over weekends along the Rennsteig (an old, 100-mile-long hiking trail that winds through the Thuringian Forest and along high ridges).

I alighted at Talstation Obstfelderschmiede were I boarded the Oberweißbacher Bergbahn. This is apparently the steepest funicular railway in the world that uses "normal" rail cars (albeit on a rolling wedge to keep the riders level with the ground).

Midway to the top, you switch to a tram-like electric train that winds through rolling fields to the resort-lette of Cursdorf. It was well-worth the trip, and the operators of the trains are justifiably proud of the service, which commenced in 1923.

Back down at Obstfelderschmiede, I caught the train to Rottenbach. While waiting there for my final connection of the day, I saw the most enormous, picture-perfect rainbow I have ever seen. It was a massive arc running across the opening of the valley, and viewed from the center-bottom it was quite a sight.

I finished the day in Saalfeld, a very pretty town about 20 minutes away. I arrived too late to walk around beyond the large main square, but in time for a wonderful dinner. I stayed at the Anker Hotel, which grew out of the Gasthof zur Güldenen Gans (founded in 1543!), and dined in their cellar restaurant, Zum Güldenen Gans. Its cozy series of vaulted, candle-lit rooms are highlighted by a cream plaster wall adorned with a brown, red, grey and black medieval mural.

On the recommendation of the sole avuncular waiter, who may in fact have been the proprietor, I started with a clear beef broth with fluffy, marble-sized dumplings and flecks of onion, carrots and peas. This was followed by a very colorful small salad that included finely-shredded black radish, red cabbage, green pepper, cucumber and lettuce with a sugar-vinegar dressing and a splotch of herbed yogurt cream in the center. For my main course, I had what was called Eichsteak an Waldpilzen und Pfeffersoße mit Kartoffel-Quarkpasteten. It may or may not have been beef -- it could have also been a game steak, but I wasn't sure -- and was grilled medium-rare and served with a delicious wild mushroom and black peppercorn sauce. In a separate dish came two crispy golden potato croquettes stuffed with molten herbal quark (a soft, fresh cheese). All were delicious, and were washed down with a very nice local Saalfelder Pilsner.

My room was very comfortable and immaculate, and the staff could not have been friendlier. Saalfeld turned out to be a stop well worth making.